Savile Row's Best Bespoke Suit Tailors
by Britta
Beduhn-Haverkamp
A
handmade bespoke suit from Savile Row in London for the gentleman can be
regarded as the equivalent to an
haute couture
outfit for the lady from Paris: it is simply the ultimate indulgence and
style. The bespoke Savile Row suit has a classic slim silhouette and nipped
waist. The real bespoke Savile Row suit is handmade on the premises from
a pattern after a trained craftsman has taken your measurements and can
take up to 100 man hours of craftsmanship. Over 20 measurements must be
taken before a cutter can create an individual card pattern. The cloth
is then cut and trimmed in preparation for the first fitting.
A bespoke suit from London's Savile
Row used to be a very elite affair in Edwardian England as you had to be
introduced to the tailor by a friend - luckily this is not the case anymore.
King Edward VII (1841-1910) and his entourage made Savile Row fashionable
around the turn of the last century. His favourite tailor was
Henry
Poole, who was the first tailor who opened a shop in Savile Row in 1806.
King Edward VII's grandson Edward VIII, and later Duke of Windsor (1894-1972),
gave Savile Row its international cachet. The Duke of Windsor, who abdicated
in 1936 in order to marry the American Mrs. Wallis Simpson, introduced
film stars such as Gary Cooper, Clark Gable and Cary Grant to Savile Row.
Through this a loyal American clientele was established. Since then, Savile
Row has always been popular amongst those in the know.
Over the past couple of years Savile
Row is seeing an amazing revival. Celebrities such as Sean Connery, Brian
Ferry, Michael Caine, Charlie Watts and Tom Cruise all have joined the
client lists of some of the most exclusive tailors on Savile Row. Elegant-Lifestyle
has, therefore, visited Savile Row and has compiled a comprehensive and
informative list of the most established names for the famous bespoke Savile
Row suit.
There are thousands of different patterns
to choose from and the cloth weight can range between 8 and 18 ounces with
11 ounces being a perfect choice for an all-year-round business suit. Most
customers prefer being able to undo the sleeve buttons and the real test
for the Savile Row suit is the thread below the buttonhole on the back
of the suit's lapel, which is there to hold the boutonniere (fresh flower)
upright, which you might put into your lapel for a special occasion. Some
dandies, of course, might even wear a boutonniere every day to make a personal
statement of unrivalled style and elegance.
The personal tailoring of your bespoke
suit will require about 3 fittings and take four to twelve weeks. Prices
for a bespoke suit start at £3,000 to £4,000 incl. VAT for
the more famous names and can go up £10,000 for very exclusive materials.
The addition of a waistcoat, which elevates the two-piece suit to an elegant
three-piece suit will add another £300 to £900. Although all
of the addresses listed below do the classic bespoke Savile Row suit, which
is handmade, some of the tailors also offer a more affordable alternative:
the made-to-measure or made-to-order suit, which is also called personal
tailoring. This type of suit starts off with a normal standard size, which
is then altered according to your specifications and then manufactured
in a factory.
Last but not least, most tailors listed
here do regular visits to the US as well as the European Continent. This
means: if you cannot come to Savile Row, Savile Row will come to you.
Please note that, at the time of update
in 2012, 1 British pound is about 1.25 euros or 1.6 US dollars and VAT
(value added tax) is 20%, which does not apply to overseas customers. Also,
two good books on suits are 'Gentleman
- A Timeless Fashion' or 'A Well-Dressed Gentleman's
Pocket Guide'.
Anderson
& Sheppard (established in 1873)
Anderson and Sheppard are
clearly one of the top names in Savile Row, now around the corner in Old
Burlington Street, with prominent customers such as Prince Philip, Valentino
and Brian Ferry. Their vast number of patterns to choose from also includes
those uniquely made for Anderson and Sheppard; Price range: average price
for a handmade two-piece bespoke suit from £3,744 incl. VAT (a three-piece
bespoke suit from £4,248 incl. VAT); Time taken: eight to twelve
weeks; Appointment advised between noon and 2pm, otherwise not necessary;
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 8.30am-5.30pm; Tel: +44-20-7734 1420; Fax: +44-20-7734
1721; 32 Old Burlington Street; London W1S 3AT; e-mail: office@anderson-sheppard.co.uk;
website: www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk
Dege
& Skinner (established in 1865)
Dege and Skinner cater not
only for the Queen but also for the Sultan of Oman. Dege and Skinner have
a few hundred pattern lengths on show and thousands of patterns in cloth
books. Dege and Skinner make visits to the US, Arabia and Europe about
3-4 times a year; Price range: a handmade two-piece bespoke suit starts
from £3,200 incl. VAT and a three-piece suit starts from £3,800
incl. VAT; Time taken: nine to twelve weeks; Appointment is advisable;
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 9.15am-5.15pm, Sat 9.30-12.30am; Tel: +44-20-7287
2941; Fax: +44-20-7734 8794; 10 Savile Row; London W1X 1AF; e-mail: info@dege-skinner.co.uk;
website: www.dege-skinner.co.uk
Ede
& Ravenscroft (established in 1689)
Ede and Ravenscroft is the
oldest tailor in London with Royal Warrants from each member of the Royal
Family. Ede and Ravenscroft is located at the South end of Savile Row.
There are more than a thousand different patterns on offer ranging from
9 to 15 ounces; Price range: a handmade two-piece bespoke suit starts from
£2,750 incl. VAT and £500 extra for a waistcoat, a made-to-order
two piece suit will cost about £985 incl. VAT with £295 extra
for a waistcoat; Time taken: six to eight weeks; Appointment is only needed
for made-to-order; Opening hours: Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 10am-6pm; Tel: +44-20-7734
5450; Fax: +44-20- 7344 2041; 8 Burlington Gardens; London W1X 1LG; e-mail:
michael.stevens@edeandravenscroft.co.uk; website: www.edeandravenscroft.co.uk
Gieves
& Hawkes (established in 1786)
Gieves and Hawkes has many
Royal Warrants and has had clients in the past such as Admiral Nelson (1758-1805),
who won Trafalgar in 1805, and the Duke of Wellington (1769-1852), who
won Waterloo in 1815, the choice of cloth comprises 40,000 different patterns.
Should this not be sufficient, they will get you anything you like; Price
range: a handmade two-piece bespoke suit starts from £4,130 incl.
VAT and a three-piece suit from £4,990 incl. VAT, made-to-measure
starts from £1,000 incl. VAT for a two-piece suit and from £1,270
incl. VAT for a three-piece suit; Time taken: around eight weeks; Appointment
is advisable. Opening hours: Mon-Sat 10am-6.30pm, Sun: noon-5pm; Tel: +44-20-7434
2001; Fax: +44-20-7437 1092; 1 Savile Row; London W1X 2JR; e-mail: gieves@gievesandhawkes.com;
website:
www.gievesandhawkes.com
Hardy
Amies (established in 1946)
Hardy Amies, how passed
away in 2003 aged 93, was the personal tailor to the Queen and had a high
standard that is only comparable with haute-couture houses in Paris. He
was also at ease with people who want to give their Savile Row suit a more
trendy slant - if you are able to afford it. Stuart Lamprell joined Hardy
Amies as head cutter in 2010; Price range: a handmade two-piece bespoke
suit will start from £3,400 plus VAT and a three-piece suit from
£4,400 plus VAT; Time taken: six to twelve weeks; Appointment is
advisable; Opening hours: Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 10am-6pm; Tel: +44-20-7734
2436; Fax: +44-20-7439 7116; 14 Savile Row; London W1X 2JN; e-mail: office@hardyamies.co.uk;
website:
www.hardyamies.co.uk
Henry
Poole & Co. (established in 1806)
Henry Poole was the first
tailor in Savile Row in 1806 and has been crowned by a long history of
royal patronage such as King Edward VII (1841-1910), Henry Poole makes
regular visits to the European Continent and the US and also has outlets
in Japan; Price range: a handmade two-piece bespoke suit starts from around
£3,550 incl. VAT and a waistcoat will add another £350 incl.
VAT for a three-piece suit, silk lining is an option for another £200
incl. VAT; Time taken: nine to twelve weeks; Appointment during lunch-hour
preferred, but appointment also possible outside normal business hours;
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 9am-5.15pm; Tel: +44-20-7734 5985; Fax: +44-20-7287
2161; 15 Savile Row; London W1X 1AE; e-mail: office@henrypoole.com; website:
www.henrypoole.com
Huntsman
& Sons (established in 1849)
Huntsman and Sons boasts
a number of Royal Warrants from past English Kings and Queens. Huntsman
has a couple of thousand patterns to choose from, also many woollen patterns
that are especially made for Huntsman. They are also strong in hunting
coats. Huntsman visits clients in the US and in Paris up to three
times a year; Price range: a handmade two-piece bespoke suit comes to around
£4,600 incl. VAT, which is the top of the range for an old name in
Savile Row, and a waistcoat will add another £600 for a three-piece
suit; Time taken: ten to twelve weeks; Appointment is advisable; Opening
hours: Mon-Fri 9am to 5.30pm, Sat 10am-3pm; Tel: +44-20- 7734 7441; Fax:
+44-20-7287 2937; 11 Savile Row; London W1X 2PS; e-mail: enquiries@h-huntsman.co.uk;
website:
www.h-huntsman.com
Kilgour
(established in 1882)
Known as Kilgour, French
and Stanbury until 2003, Kilgour is a name to reckon with in Savile Row
and their offering of fabrics goes into the hundreds. Their elegant premises
with their gallery like art window display shows a tailor with more than
130 years of experience with clients such as Cary Grant. Kilgour visits
New York and the US 3-4 times a year; Price range: a handmade two-piece
bespoke suit will start from £3,800 incl. VAT and a three-piece suit
£4,700 incl. VAT; Time taken: six to eight weeks; Appointment is
not needed; Opening hours: Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm, Sat 9.30am-6pm; Tel: +44-20-3283
8941; Fax: +44-20-7287 8147; 8 Savile Row; London W1X 1AF; e-mail: customerservices@kilgour.com;
website:
www.kilgour.com
Maurice
Sedwell (established in 1938)
Maurice Sedwell is proud
of its well established reputation which is an integral part of their philosophy
“It carries no banner nor labels adorn, but speaks for itself once it is
worn.” Customers can choose from an unlimited collection of the world’s
finest fabrics. Head tailor, Andrew Ramroop, visits clients in more than
20 countries – a Savile Row record; Price range: handmade two-piece bespoke
suit starts from £3,900 inl. VAT (for waistcoats add £900 inc.
VAT); Time taken: six to twelve weeks; Appointment is desirable; Opening
hours: Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-1pm; Tel: +44-20-7734 0824; Fax: +44-20-7437
0529; 19 Savile Row; London W1X 1AE; e-mail: info@savilerowtailor.com;
website: www.savilerowtailor.com
Norton
& Sons (established in 1821)
Norton and Sons offer about
a thousand types of cloth and is especially strong in tweed for hunting
and shooting, which is sometimes even handmade. Norton and Sons do regular
visits to the US (ex-president George Bush is a client), the European Continent
and Asia; Price range: a handmade two-piece bespoke suit starts from £3,560
incl. VAT; Time taken: four to eight weeks; Appointment is advisable; Opening
hours: Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm; Tel: +44-20-7437 0829; Fax: +44-20-7287 4764;
16 Savile Row; London W1X
1AE; e-mail: enquiries@nortonandsons.co.uk; website:
www.nortonandsons.co.uk
Ozwald
Boateng (established in 1992)
Ozwald Boateng caters for
fashion and media clients. Bespoke is the highest quality line on offer
by Ozwald Boateng, with handmade craftsmanship cut from scratch, created
by a team of highly skilled tailors. This private service is provided within
the luxurious confinement of Ozwald Boateng's Bespoke Room, based in the
Saville Row flagship store. Ozwald Boateng combines the unique Savile Row
style with very trendy coloured cloths, some of them silk and wool combinations;
Price range: a handmade two-piece bespoke suit will start from £4,100
incl. VAT, made-to-measure starts from £1,600 incl. VAT; Time taken:
four to six weeks; Appointment is advisable; Opening hours: Mon-Sat 10am-6pm;
Tel: +44-20-7437 2030; Fax: +44-20-7734 3737; 30 Savile Row, London W1S
3PT; e-mail: bespoke@ozwaldboateng.co.uk; website:
www.ozwaldboateng.co.uk
Richard
James (established in 1992)
Richard James started in
Savile Row in 1992 with the mission to create a classic but modern interpretation
of the traditional British suit and is known for the clean, slim silhouettes
of the suits, worn for example by Hugh Grant or Sir Elton John. The large
choice of fabrics also include exclusive fabrics to Richard James; Price
range: a handmade two-piece bespoke suit will start from £3,125 plus
VAT and a three-piece suit from £3,500 plus VAT, made-to-measure
starting from £1,085 plus VAT for a two piece suit, £1,250
plus VAT for a three piece suit; Time taken: six to twelve weeks; Appointment
is advisable. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat 11am-6pm; Tel: +44-20-7287
9645; Fax: +44-20-7287 2265; 19 Clifford Street, London W1S 3RH;
e-mail: customercare@richardjames.co.uk; website:
www.richardjames.co.uk
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